Helmut Lang (born Peter Scepka; 10 March 1956) is an Austrian artist and former fashion designer and mentor who lives and works in New York and on Long Island.
Career In 1986, Lang showed his first Helmut Lang runway collection in Paris at Centre Georges Pompidou. His first Helmut men's collection debuted in 1987 and a decade later he moved his label from Vienna to New York. Lang used unconventional materials such as rubber, feathers and metallic fabrics and redefined the silhouette of the 1990s and early 2000s. He broke away from the runway show-as-spectacle in the height of the 1980s opulence and was the first to stream his collection online in 1998. Lang's brand was known for its utilitarian, minimalist aesthetic, as well as for his prestige range of denim. In 1999, Lang sold a 51% stake in his company to the Prada Group, with Prada handling distribution and manufacturing and Lang retaining control of design and advertising. Afterwards, Prada developed a line of Helmut Lang accessories such as shoes, belts and bags, and opened Helmut Lang stores in Hong Kong and Singapore. Sales under the Prada Group fell from $100 million in 1999 to $37 million in 2003. The brand's decision to cancel the licensing agreement with an external company to manufacture and market its profitable range of Helmut Lang Jeans was cited as one of the reasons for its revenue loss. In 2005, he left his label and retired from fashion. He has since been based in New York City and on Long Island as a practising artist. In 2006, Prada sold the Helmut Lang brand to Link Theory Holdings. Lang has collaborated with artists Jenny Holzer and Louise Bourgeois. His recent works explore abstract sculptural forms and physical arrangements beyond the limitations of the human body. Lang had his first solo art exhibition ALLES GLEICH SCHWER at the Kestnergesellschaft in Hannover in 2008 and has since presented solo exhibitions internationally. Lang has published excerpts from his ongoing art projects Long Island Diaries [8] and The Selective Memory Series [9] in several publications, such as Purple, BUTT Magazine [10], Fanzine 137 [11], Visionaire and most recently The Travel Almanac [12]. 2026 https://www.mak.at/exhibition/helmutlang
Work
This timeline outlines Helmut Lang's work in fashion and art up until 2021. Solo Exhibitions
Group Exhibitions
Helmut Lang fashion 1977–2005
This timeline outlines the developments in Lang's fashion as well significant attributes of key collections. 1977
Opens made-to-measure studio in Vienna. 1980–84
Development of signature collections and made-to-measure service in Vienna. 1986
First presentation in Paris. Shown off the Paris fashion calendar as part of the exhibition "Vienne 1880–1939: L'Apocalypse Joyeuse" at The Centre National d'Art et de Culture Georges Pompidou. 1987
Introduction of the first Helmut Lang Men's collection. Women and Men's collections are shown together on the Paris fashion calendar. Men's silhouette marked the return of the narrow and tailored suit shown with the white shirt, black tie, and made-to-measure shoes. 1988
Rejects the structure of the traditional fashion show. Introduces the concept of “Séance de Travail.” 1990
Introduces layering of transparent fabrics in new materials and textures. New approach towards the treatment of these. Introduction of Helmut Lang footwear 1991
Introduces wet looks, thermal fabrics, paper dresses and Native American influences. 1992
Introduces extremely shiny fabrics and textures. Thermal leathers, technical fabrics, padded clothing and body-conscious shapes. 1993
A/W '93–'94. Street style / haute couture presented in wool knits, pure cashmere and velvet. Trademark slit and slashed sleeves first introduced. S/S '94. Introduces cuffed pants, holographic fabrics, holographic sterling silver jeans, lacquered silks, phantom prints, apron dresses, colored tuxedo stripes, stretch daytime smoking coats, raw denim and customized silk dresses. Introduces hand-sprayed shoes and customized dancing shoes. First separate Men's presentation. Men's S/S '94 shown as part of the Paris fashion calendar. Begins collaboration with Juergen Teller on backstage documentation and advertising. Lang accepted a professorship at 'Modeklasse', the famous department of fashion design at the University of Applied Arts Vienna. 1994
A/W '94–'95. Latex-bounded lace, lacquered silks, smoking coats and suits, nylon veil dresses, airbrushed silks and slash geometric patterns on candy-colored fabrics. Introduced reflective fabrics and nude as staple color. First show presented at 17 Rue Commines. S/S '95. "Hawaiian techno,” high-tech and air-tech. New nylon fabrics introduced. 1995
A/W '95–'96. “Couture customized”, camel and tweeds, bra holsters, chiffon and faille. Introduces two-color bloc paneling. Introduction of Helmut Lang underwear. S/S '96. New take on lace for men and women, delicate materials, electro vibe, visible bras, apron belts and contrast layering. 1996
A/W '96–'97. Techno jungle, covered sequins, floral patterns, cargo styles, Japanese Obi style tops and evening dresses. Introduces signature uniform outerwear. Presented with gold blanked covered audience. Introduction of Helmut Lang Jeans, featuring khakis, chinos, denims, work wear, casual wear, functionals and protective wear. S/S '97. Introduction of sashes, festive and ceremonial wear, dislodged lingerie, tuxedo accessories and colored denim. 1997
A/W '97–'98. Shift toward luxury with the use of classic and pure materials. Reintroduction of fine cashmeres, blended wools and silks. Introduction of funnel neck coats and pleated skirts. Silk tulle, cummerbunds and silk down coated duvet wraps. Definition of new Helmut Lang style with made-to-measure finishing. Second separate Men's presentation. Men's S/S 98 collection shown as part of the New York fashion calendar. S/S '98. Introduction of A-line skirt and dresses. Usage of crinoline and pleats. Reintroduction of the classic white T-shirt. For men, introduction of the urban utilitarian. Vintage, painted and sanded denim. Introduction of fold-out clothes. Introduction of “accessoire vêtements.”. Starts collaboration with Jenny Holzer on all Helmut Lang stores. [13] 1998
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