Rock Master is an international competition climbing event that is held every year in Arco, Italy. The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight session and the second is called "after work". The final classification is given by the sum of the two events. On Friday the athletes are given a chance to survey the work route, and the actual climbing takes place on Saturday and Sunday. At the competition, two prestigious awards, known as the "Oscars of climbing", are presented: the Salewa Rock Award, and the La Sportiva Competition Award.
History In 1985 it was disputed for the first time Sportroccia to Bardonecchia. The following year the event was tied to a stop at the side of the Colodri of Arc. Right on the wall of the Colodri in 1987, played in the first Rock Master. The following year, the race left the rock and from that moment is played only on artificial in a large open space at the base of Colodri. Since 1999, in addition to lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing competitions were also held. Since 2006, during the event, a jury give out the "Arco Rock Legends", two awards that are considered the Oscars of climbing:
Salewa Rock Award for the athlete with the best performance on single-pitch sport climbs and boulders. La Sportiva Competition Award for the best athlete who has competed in the previous competition season.
Format The competition is usually held the first weekend of September, with a few exceptions:
in 2010 has been brought forward to July as a pre-event of the World Championship of climbing that would take place in 2011. Instead of the usual two rounds (worked and view) a competition was held to only classical view in three rounds: qualifiers, semi-finals, and finals. in 2011 instead of the Rock Master was held in July at the Arco Climbing World Championship in 2011. The title of the Rock Master was, however, given the evidence of the Duel, a competition demonstration that took place at the end of the World Championship and was attended by the first sixteen male and female athletes of the league lead. In 2012 the speed test was valid also as the fourth leg of the World Cup speed climbing 2012.
Winners
Lead
Bouldering
Speed
Duel
KO Boulder
Arco Rock Legends
Editions
2018 (32nd)
Lead Duel Joannes was leading McColl when he peeled off a crimp towards the finish. Shiraishi had been beaten by Garnbret, and her final lunge for the finish pad at 2:34 fell short. Women's jersey 6 was tied with Rogora but peeled off trying to navigate past the same crimp Joannes fell on, only for Rogora herself to undershoot the finish pad at 2:39. Chanourdie had been beaten by Pilz when she failed to stick the second to last hold at 2:32. Ruidigier was leading Ghisolfi when he peeled off the same crimp at 1:12. Koller slapped the pad ahead of Verhoeven at 1:33 but undershot.
Men's Qualifications
Men's Finals
Women's Qualifications
Women's Finals
KO Boulder The first problem's crux involved matching hands on a sloper and reaching left to the finish hold. In the first round on the first problem, Kruder dynoed the first move of the first problem. Rubtsov tried this on his second attempt and became the first to stick the crux sloper and top the problem. Vezonik tried it after Rubtsov, having been unable to progress to the crux on his initial static attempt, but was unable to stick the dyno, and the second time he stuck the crux sloper but could not advance, so he jokingly grabbed the top of the wall instead. Piazza was unable to secure himself on the holds below the crux, barn dooring off his third, dynamic, attempt, upon which he was eliminated. The second problem was more difficult. It's crux involved a series of three pinches, which none could stick on their first try. Hojer became the first to solve it, using a static heel hook technique, then progressing to the final hold but failing to match hands. Kruder solved it more dynamically right after him, but could not fully reach the second to last hold. Mawem and Piccolruaz were unable to progress to the crux, so they were eliminated. The third problem had a slab start with a lean far to the left, which Vezonik stuck on his first attempt, only to barn door trying to reach the next hold. Rubtsov succeeded in sticking the lean and reaching the next hold on his second attempt, but could not stick the crimp before the finish hold. Vezonik stuck the next hold on his second attempt, but fell off switching hands. After two attempts, Kruder was unable to stick the lean, while Hojer was unable to reach any handholds at all even after a third attempt, so Hojer was eliminated. The fourth problem was substantially easier for the remaining contestants than the previous problems. It had a crack start to an overhang and a climb to a sloper that required mantling the second to last hold to reach. On his first and only attempt, Kruder was able to touch, but not hold, the final hold. Then Rubtsov and Vezonik both onsighted the problem, eliminating Kruder.
Men's
2021 (34th) The men's and women's routes were of the same difficulty. Gibert had been beaten by Lukan when she lunged for a dyno, missing the finish pad at 2:04. Fossali had been beaten by Ondra when he peeled off the ceiling at 2:30. Stráník had been beaten by Piccolruaz when he peeled off lunging for the final hold at 1:22. Flohé had been beaten by Ghisolfi when he peeled off at 1:13, swinging for the final hold. Rogora was beaten by Lukan while on the last hold, but she peeled off. Flohé had been beaten by Ondra when he peeled off at 1:12, lunging for the final hold.
Lead Duel
Men's
Women's
KO Boulder Climbers got three chances each to complete the boulder problem each round. Points were assigned after each round, taking into account the highest reached hold and the number of attempts. In case of a tie, the points of the previous rounds would decide who advances or wins.
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