The schiffli embroidery machine is a multi-needle, industrial embroidery machine. It was invented by Isaak Gröbli in 1863. It was used to create various types of machine embroidery and certain types of lace. It was especially used in the textile industry of eastern Switzerland and Saxony, but also in the United Kingdom and the United States. Schiffli machines evolved from, and eventually replaced manually operated "hand embroidery" machines. The hand embroidery machine used double ended needles and passed the needles completely through the fabric. Each needle had a single, continuous thread. Whereas the schiffli machine used a lock stitch, the same technique used by the sewing machine. By the early twentieth century schiffli machines had standardized to ten and fifteen meters in width and used more than 600 needles.
Principle The Schiffli machine used two threads – one on the front side and one on the back side of the fabric. The first thread is entwined with the second thread to form a lock stitch. The front side thread, or embroidery yarn, is held on a spool, or rather a creel of spools. A boat-shaped shuttle (German: Schützen or Schiffchen, Swiss German: Schiffli) carries the bobbin thread, which is also known as the schiffli yarn. There is one shuttle per needle. When the front-side needle pierces the fabric it passes the embroidery thread through the fabric from front to rear. As the needle withdraws it forms a loop on the back side of the material. The shuttle which trails the bobbin thread passes through this loop. Finally, the front-side thread is pulled tight. Like its predecessor, the hand embroidery machine, the Schiffli machine used a row of needles and a movable frame that holds the fabric. A shuttle embroidery machine can have several hundred needles per row. The needles are stationary and the frame moves. A stitch that occurs in any given direction is accomplished by moving the frame in the opposite direction. Different manufacturers achieved different minimum stitch lengths. Saurer machines could make a stitch as small as 1/256 inch. Designs with multiple colors required re-threading all of the needles. There were also attachments for boring holes in the fabric. Both stitching and boring require very precise frame movement. Once a row of embroidery is completed the material is rolled upwards and the design is repeated. There are several advantages to using a lock stitch: significantly longer threads can be used, the threads are less prone to breakage, and the stitch rate is much faster. This means fewer interruptions and less frequent stops to re-thread. Unlike the hand embroidery machine, the needles do not pass completely through the fabric. Since the manual embroidery machine required the thread to be pulled completely through the fabric, after each front and back side stitch, its thread length was limited by the depth of the machine. A schiffli spool on the other hand, could hold more than 500 yards of embroidery thread. The schiffli machine is only limited by the length of thread that can fit on the bobbin. Like the hand embroidery machine, early schiffli machines used a manually operated pantograph to trace a pattern and translate the location of each stitch. Later, a card reader was used to program the machine. The punch card, a concept borrowed from the Jacquard loom, recorded the end points of each stitch, as well as other functions that could be performed by the machine, e.g. stitching, boring, or advancing the material. The conversion of the design into a punch card was known as punching.
Needle spacing, or pitch, limited the width of the embroidered design. The spacing between the needles is known as rapport. The unit for measuring spacing was the French inch (1.08 English inch). Standard spacing was known as 4/4 rapport. Machines with 3/4, 4/4, and 6/4 were typical. Theses machines had 342, 228, and 156 needles per row. Wider needle spacing and thus larger designs could be produced by removing some of the needles. This was known as 6/4, 12/4, or 16/4 rapport.
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