ArticleslgStudy

science

Stokes drift

Stokes drift is a science topic covered in the lgStudy science library. This page brings together a partial reference excerpt, illustrations, worked examples, real-world applications and a short study plan, so you can understand Stokes drift rather than just read about it. In short: For a pure wave motion in fluid dynamics, the Stokes drift velocity is the average velocity when following a specific fluid parcel as it travels with the fluid flow. For instance, a particle floating at the free surface of water waves, experiences a net Stokes drift velocity in the direction of wave propagation.

Stokes drift — main illustration
Stokes drift — illustration

Key takeaways

  • Stokes drift belongs to science; place it in that map before memorising details.
  • Learn the definition first, then one example that makes the definition concrete.
  • Connect Stokes drift to a quantity you can measure, compute or draw — that is where exam questions come from.
  • Reproduce the core statement of Stokes drift from memory before moving on to harder problems.

Reference excerpt

For a pure wave motion in fluid dynamics, the Stokes drift velocity is the average velocity when following a specific fluid parcel as it travels with the fluid flow. For instance, a particle floating at the free surface of water waves, experiences a net Stokes drift velocity in the direction of wave propagation. More generally, the Stokes drift velocity is the difference between the average Lagrangian flow velocity of a fluid parcel, and the average Eulerian flow velocity of the fluid at a fixed position. This nonlinear phenomenon is named after George Gabriel Stokes, who derived expressions for this drift in his 1847 study of water waves. The Stokes drift is the difference in end positions, after a predefined amount of time (usually one wave period), as derived from a description in the Lagrangian and Eulerian coordinates. The end position in the Lagrangian description is obtained by following a specific fluid parcel during the time interval. The corresponding end position in the Eulerian description is obtained by integrating the flow velocity at a fixed position—equal to the initial position in the Lagrangian description—during the same time interval. The Stokes drift velocity equals the Stokes drift divided by the considered time interval. Often, the Stokes drift velocity is loosely referred to as Stokes drift. Stokes drift may occur in all instances of oscillatory flow which are inhomogeneous in space. For instance in water waves, tides and atmospheric waves. In the Lagrangian description, fluid parcels may drift far from their initial positions. As a result, the unambiguous definition of an average Lagrangian velocity and Stokes drift velocity, which can be attributed to a certain fixed position, is by no means a trivial task. However, such an unambiguous description is provided by the Generalized Lagrangian Mean (GLM) theory of Andrews and McIntyre in 1978. The Stokes drift is important for the mass transfer of various kinds of material and organisms by oscillatory flows. It plays a crucial role in the generation of Langmuir circulations. For nonlinear and periodic water waves, accurate results on the Stokes drift have been computed and tabulated.

Mathematical description The Lagrangian motion of a fluid parcel with position vector x = ξ(α, t) in the Eulerian coordinates is given by

ξ ˙ = ∂ ξ ∂ t = u ( ξ ( α , t ) , t ) , {\displaystyle {\dot {\boldsymbol {\xi }}}={\frac {\partial {\boldsymbol {\xi }}}{\partial t}}=\mathbf {u} {\big (}{\boldsymbol {\xi }}({\boldsymbol {\alpha }},t),t{\big )},}

where

∂ξ/∂t is the partial derivative of ξ(α, t) with respect to t, ξ(α, t) is the Lagrangian position vector of a fluid parcel, u(x, t) is the Eulerian velocity, x is the position vector in the Eulerian coordinate system, α is the position vector in the Lagrangian coordinate system, t is time. Often, the Lagrangian coordinates α are chosen to coincide with the Eulerian coordinates x at the initial time t = t0:

ξ ( α , t 0 ) = α . {\displaystyle {\boldsymbol {\xi }}({\boldsymbol {\alpha }},t_{0})={\boldsymbol {\alpha }}.}

If the average value of a quantity is denoted by an overbar, then the average Eulerian velocity vector ūE and average Lagrangian velocity vector ūL are

… excerpt ends here. Continue reading the full article.

Illustrations

Stokes drift illustration
Stokes drift illustration
Stokes drift: An expanse of driftwood along the northern coast of Washington state. Stokes drift – besides e.g. Ekman drift and geostrophic currents – is one of the relevant processes in the transport of marine debris.[1]
An expanse of driftwood along the northern coast of Washington state. Stokes drift – besides e.g. Ekman drift and geostrophic currents – is one of the relevant processes in the transport of marine debris.[1]
Stokes drift: Stokes drift under periodic waves in deep water, for a period T = 5 s and a mean water depth of 25 m. Left: instantaneous horizontal flow velocities. Right: average flow velocities. Black solid line: average Eulerian velocity; red dashed line: average Lagrangian velocity, as derived from the Generalized Lagrangian Mean (GLM).
Stokes drift under periodic waves in deep water, for a period T = 5 s and a mean water depth of 25 m. Left: instantaneous horizontal flow velocities. Right: average flow velocities. Black solid line: average Eulerian velocity; red dashed line: average Lagrangian velocity, as derived from the Generalized Lagrangian Mean (GLM).

Worked examples

Example 1 — a first encounter with Stokes drift

Start with the simplest possible case. Write down what Stokes drift claims or describes in one sentence, then invent the smallest concrete situation in which that sentence is true. In science, the smallest case is usually a single object, a single equation or a single measurement. Check that every symbol or term in your sentence has a meaning in that case.

Example 2 — changing one variable

Take the situation from Example 1 and change exactly one quantity: double it, halve it, or set it to zero. Predict what should happen to Stokes drift before you calculate. Comparing your prediction with the result is the fastest way to find out whether you understand the idea or only the words.

Example 3 — an exam-style question

Typical questions about Stokes drift ask you to (a) state it precisely, (b) apply it to given data, and (c) explain a limitation. Practise writing all three answers in under five minutes; the third part is what separates a full-mark answer from an average one.

Applications of Stokes drift

In research
Stokes drift appears in science research whenever the underlying quantities have to be modelled precisely. Papers usually cite it as a starting assumption and then explore where it breaks down.
In technology and industry
Engineering practice reuses Stokes drift in design rules, simulations and safety margins. Knowing the idea lets you read a specification sheet and understand why the numbers look the way they do.
In the classroom
Stokes drift is common in secondary-school and first-year university syllabi. It links to neighbouring topics Fluid dynamics, Water waves, so understanding it makes those chapters shorter.
In everyday life
Look for Stokes drift outside the textbook — in sport, cooking, traffic, electronics or the sky above you. An example you found yourself is remembered far longer than one you were given.

Affiliate

Preply — study more efficiently by working with a personal tutor. 50% off.

How to study Stokes drift in 20 minutes

  1. Read the reference excerpt below once, without taking notes.
  2. Close the page and write down what Stokes drift means in your own words.
  3. Compare your version with the excerpt and mark what you missed.
  4. Work through the three examples above with pen and paper.
  5. Explain Stokes drift out loud to somebody else — or to Teacher Smith in the lgStudy chat.

Frequently asked questions

What is Stokes drift in simple terms?

For a pure wave motion in fluid dynamics, the Stokes drift velocity is the average velocity when following a specific fluid parcel as it travels with the fluid flow. For instance, a particle floating at the free surface of water waves, experiences a net Stokes drift velocity in the direction of wav…

Why does Stokes drift matter?

Because it connects several science ideas at once: it gives you a definition you can apply, a quantity you can calculate, and a way to check whether a result is plausible.

How should I study Stokes drift?

Read the excerpt, restate it from memory, then work through the examples and applications listed on this page. The five-step study plan above takes about twenty minutes.

What does this page cover?

It gives you a compact reference excerpt plus original lgStudy explanations, examples, applications and study material on Stokes drift.

Tags

  • Fluid dynamics
  • Water waves

Keep exploring