Tatreez (Levantine Arabic: تَطْرِيز, romanized: taṭrīz) is a form of traditional Palestinian embroidery. Tatreez, meaning "embroidery" in Arabic, is used to refer to the traditional style of embroidery practiced in Palestine and Palestinian diaspora communities. The contemporary form of tatreez is often dated back to the 19th century. The style of cross-stitch embroidery called fallaḥi has been practiced amongst Arab communities in the Mediterranean for centuries. The embroidery is particularly associated with embellishments on traditional dress like the thobe, with the motifs and colors representing regional identity and social relationships. Tatreez is commonly used on garments and includes a variety of symbols, including birds, trees, and flowers. The craft was originally practiced in rural areas of Palestine, but is now common across the Palestinian diaspora. In 2021, the art of embroidery in Palestine was recognized by UNESCO as an important intangible cultural heritage. According to Reem Kassis, this style of embroidery in particular is often celebrated as one of the most rich and exquisite.
Historically, each village in Palestine had distinct tatreez patterns, with unique designs telling stories about the local people, legends, animals and plants, and beliefs. The different styles of tatreez have become less distinct and have continued to evolve with the diaspora. The practice of tatreez has accreted an additional politicized significance within the context of Palestinian displacement and resistance. Tatreez patterns have incorporated nationalist symbolism within the Nakba, the Intilaqa of January 1, 1965, and the 1967 Six-Day War, and the practice remains imbued with social significance as a way to embody and propagate cultural heritage.
Origins Hanan K. Munayyer, a scholar of Palestinian dress, considers one of the first examples of Tatreez-like embroidery to be a fragment of geometric silk cross-stitch embroidery from 11th-century Alexandria. Dresses found in a 1283 CE burial in Lebanon represent the earliest intact garments with Tatreez embroidery, and strongly resemble the regional dress of Ramallah. Many popular Tatreez motifs mimic elements of Arab architectural and mosaic design. For example, the cup and acanthus leaf motif is often found in stone carvings. Historically, the materials used for Tatreez embroidery were from the local area of the embroiderer. Silk was cultivated in Palestine from the sixth to the nineteenth century in order to make the embroidery thread. Before industrialization, the fabric was woven by men in home looms. Plant dyes, such as indigo or madder, were used to color the embroidery thread.
Terminology The cross-stitch embroidery style is known as fallaḥi, from the Arabic word denoting a rural person, fallaḥ. This is the most common embroidery style throughout Palestine, but certain regions are known for idiosyncratic techniques. Bethlehem embroidery usually uses a satin stitch known as tahiri, and may incorporate metallic thread embroidery (qasab) because the thobe material was often finely woven and unsuitable for fallahi. Embroidered aspects of a thobe were often decorated before being assembled. The parts of a thobe that would often be embroidered include the chest panel (qabba) which has patterns and colors that vary from region to region and identify the wearer easily. Other commonly embroidered areas of the thobe include the rada "shoulder piece", side skirt panels (benayiq), the front of the skirt (hiijer), and the lower back panel (shinyar).
Prominent motifs A completed piece of tatreez comprises many motifs. These motifs each carry symbolic meanings, telling a story through textile. Different motifs are passed down through generations, becoming identifiers of particular villages, towns, regions, or even families. The variation reflects the deep connection between tatreez and Palestinian heritage - motifs depict the environment, history, and even daily life of Palestinians. Tree of life: Also known as the cypress, this motif is one of the most popular, seen across regions. Symbolizing longevity, resilience, and stability, the cypress tree is often depicted in symmetrical patterns, reflecting its persistent role in the natural environment of Palestine. Palm tree: Another common motif is the palm tree, though it is seen most frequently in relation to thobes from Ramallah. The palm tree is reflective of the Palestinian natural landscape, it symbolizes fertility and life - as is the nature of Palestine. Pasha's Tent: A motif related to Palestinian history is the Khemet el Basha or "Pasha's tent". The Pasha's Tent is associated with a high-ranking official from the Ottoman Empire. Star of Bethlehem: as its name alludes to, this motif is popular in the region of Bethlehem, communicating messages of love and family with its ties to Astarte, the Canaanite goddess of fertility. Border motifs: Bordering elements also play a significant role in the symbolic nature of Tatreez and Palestinian thobes. Often working to frame larger motifs, or the edges of a garment borders depict feathers, roses, soap, triangles, and toothed lines. Each completed thobe, with a tapestry of motifs, is a direct reflection of the personal circumstances of the artist, displaying social and marital status, wealth, village of origin, and even personality.
… excerpt ends here. Continue reading the full article.
